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Saturday 28 June 2008

Roundnesses and steepness of the Spitzkoppe


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End of the dunes, end of the desert, end of the ocean. Change of scenery in the Spitzkoppe massif. The autochtons like to call this mountain the Swiss Matterhorn. A highlight for rock-climbers and an off the beaten track destination which combines relaxed atmosphere and rest for the others. The team that runs the campsite at the bottom of rocky bock is smiling and hospitable. The receptionist improvises a Damara-Nama course. A disconcerting language which you must take off the tongue from the palate for pronouncing a clicking sound before going on with a syllable. Not easy.
We walk away from the campsite to climb the huge round rocks stored among the golden grass. A disneyland-like arrangement of big stones. Without being unforgettable, the Spitzkoppe is however worth the trip. Harmonious roundnesses of its sides and steepness of its crest. The sunset is savoured without moderation : reddening shade of the generously curved rocks on a bed of ochre savannah.

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Tuesday 2 October 2007

The pilgrimage of the Sikhs to the golden temple

Amritsar is for the Sikhs what Mecca is for the Muslims, a holy city. Once in their life, the Sikhs have to carry out a pilgrimage to the golden temple.
Chorus of honks, tangle of bicycles, rickshaws and horse-towed carts welcome us. First images of a milling, life-seething town. A forgotten atmosphere since we went off to Himachal Pradesh in exile. The Indian truth resurfaces again. In the streets, thick beards on smiling faces topped by firmly swaddled turbans. The Sikhs, a bewildering religion.

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On the way to the golden temple, we stop in front of cages full of chicks. Further to genetic modifications, they wear colours oddly different from the common yellow. Actually, the invigorating dyes aren't only for the Hindu women's saris...

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We draw near the enclosure of the temple whose one of the gilded cupolas drift above the drab and filthy street. Other white-angel-like domes break away from the muddled alleyways we step on. We take our shoes off, don a scarf on the head and get into the holy area. A mesmerizing music surrounds the holy place and hundreds of followers tread around the artificial rectangular lake. Some of them purify themselves into its waters while others line up to visit the golden temple.
This quite recent religion is definitely baffling but offers us an architectural jewel, a temple covered with glistening golden leaves when richly coloured pilgrims with turquoise, pink and orange shades soak in this musical and religious aura.

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Saturday 23 June 2007

the transsiberian experience

There are trips which leave marks on who lived them, there are trips we'd like them to last and for which the word "the end" comes too fast, there are trips which backs up your wish to discover the world an to meet its people. The transsiberian expedition is forged with that. I write down these few words to make share it and above all, to plunge back into it.
77 hours of train, about 30 stops which hardly last a few minutes, 5185 kilometers covered, a few Russian-sounded cities such as Yekaterinburg, Omsk, Novossibirsk, Krasnoyarsk, Irkutsk. All these arguments would make a bad impression on a touristic brochure and wouldn't make dream an exotic place-addicted traveller. However, it's this train I get on the 18 of june at 23h25, platform 3, carriage 7, couchette n°17.

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On the platform, I'm looking for foreign backpackers, I meet Tom and Mark, 2 deutch cousins who went far away from the old continent for 10 months. Checking our tickets, we see we're in the same carriage, here is a good news. We load our rucksacks onto the shoulders and approach the carriage entrance. Several people wait for the inspector authorizes them to get on the train. Peering the faces, we notice three quarters of the travellers of this carriage are european. As well as us, you have to add, Henrik and Valérie, Deutch brother and sister left to rest for 6 weeks, 2 finnish girls, 2 swedish boys Gustav and Jonas, Hugh moving away from his native Great Britain for a few months and Beckie, an intrepid English girl who, after discovering the oriental Asia, will go back through Pakistan and Iran following the silk road.
Contrary to a classic train or plane trip where everybody stays silent reading, listening to music or sleeping, we know we're going to spend a good deal of time together. The shyness is packed at the bottom of the bag and each one makes others' acquaintance. As far as I'm concerned, I've the thirst for talking after the silent week I spent between Saint-Petersburg and Moscow.
Each compartment of this second-class carriage is formed by 4 couchettes. I share mine with a Russian woman, the 2 top ones will stay vacant all along the journey. The communication is limited since she speaks neither English nor French, and I don't speak Russian. I spend a lot of time talking with my new friends and topics aren't missing. We "rebuild" Europe and the world, we compare our cultures and our itineraries, we set out our travel experiences, We chat about a lot of different topics as we were old friends and we laugh a lot.
We count the hours before the next stop always repeating to Nathalia, responsible of our carriage : "zdyess Irkutsk?" ( "here we are in Irkutsk ?" ). She always replies "Nyet". On the platform, travelling merchants hurry as soon as we get off the train. They offer us dishes, fruits, sweets, and the competition between them is hearty. A few shops complete the scene with a bigger choice of food, instant chinese noodles, chocolate, yoghurts, biscuits. Chinese noodles is a big hit and the basic food of our trip.

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Except taking a shower because there aren't any cabins in the carrriages, we "live" in the transsiberian train. And it would be a real pity to make sacrifices when we know we can get on this type of train for 7 days (149h) to link Moscow to Vladivostok, on the shore of the Japan sea. With its 9289km, here is the longest railway track in the world.
Its birth goes back to 1891 when Alexander III approved the idea of a transsiberian line in order to connect numerous remote areas and to link the faraway Orient to the West. The work was divided into 7 areas and started simultaneously. In exchange for colossal work, the first links were put into operation in 1900. The transsiberian train was introduced the same year during the international exhibition of Paris. Since this date, the line was completed by a lot of ramifications and by its electrification.
In spite of the slowness of the train, time goes by fast on board. The kilometers increase and the landscapes pass by. At the sunrise of the 4th day, the train slows down and stops for the last time. The cyrillic-written sign of Irkutsk appears through the window. It's time for the painful goodbye but the trip goes on. We hope a good luck to each other wishing to meet up. And each one scatters into the crowd that has come to welcome his travellers.

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The Transsiberian is an incredible adventure and before all a human experience. The fact of living together in a close space for these numerous hours intensified the relationship and increased the emotions, but above all, it showed me how much I'm keen on travelling and why I'm here. Bag on the back, full-charged batteries and a large smile on my face, I go again for the next episode of my trip.

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